Chains wear out eventually and need to be replaced. We say that the chain stretches but that is not really true. It wears allowing extra space around the pins and rollers allowing them to move apart having the effect of stretching. You can measure a chain’s wear by using a tool made for this. Parktool has one. It is a go/no go tool. One side is .75 wear and the other side is 1.0 wear indication. If the guage tool does not drop down inside a link it does not need replacing as far as stretching. If the tool does drop down into a link then the chain is worn and needs replacing. The .75 and 1.0 indicate the amount of wear. .75 is a little worn and 1.0 is worn a bunch.

The newer CC-3 tool (CC-3.2) has .5 and .75 instead of .75 and 1.0.

You can also simply measure the distance between the pins. A new chain will measure exactly one inch between pins. As a chain wears this distance will increase. Once it reaches 1 1/16 of an inch it is considered worn and needing of replacement. At 1 1/8 it is considered badly worn.

You can see the wear around the pins in the picture above.

One thing to keep in mind is a trike chain will last far longer than a bicycle chain. That is because it is so much longer and therefore wears at a much slower rate.

Keep in mind that failure to replace a a worn chain in a timely manner can be very costly as a worn chain will destroy the sprockets and they are far more expensive to replace than a chain. You should be able to go thru 2 or 3 chains before sprockets should show much wear.

Here is Parktool’s videos on when and how to replace a chain on a bicycle. It is quite similar on a tadpole trike. One difference is the length of the chain … around 3 times as long as a standard bicycle chain. Don’t go by the measured length of the worn chain as it will be longer due to wear. Instead count the links or you might end up in error if the chain is worn sufficiently.

What I do personally is once I know I have everything dialed in as far as my boom setting I count the links of my chain and write it down so I will know what it is. Then I can simply count out the links when replacing the chain. Of course, this will only work if the boom is not readjusted.

The chain breaker tool like shown above is a Parktool, of course. Several different manufacturers make them.

I have a Pedro  pictured above and really like it. I think you will find a full sized professional tool is easier and better to use than a much cheaper and smaller chain breaker like shown below. They tend to bend and/or break all too easily if you are not careful using them. And I think they wear out faster.

You will find that using a 3rd hand chain tool is very handy when you are removing and replacing the missing link (quick link/master link/repair link). I bought the one like pictured below on  the left side being used in the chain  and I have made a couple like shown in the other two pictures. I like the Parktool one I bought the best.

You will find it extremely handy holding the chain together while you work on the missing link.

Also using the special missing link pliers makes the job much easier. They can be used when taking the link apart or putting it back together.

BTW, I bought a pair of off brand name el cheapo ‘missing link pliers’ (pictured above) and I like them better than the Parktool brand which I have 2 pair of.   They are currently $8.22 on Ebay. The best price I have found on Parktool’s pliers is $12.00 on Ebay which is very cheap compared to what they usually cost which is $18 and higher.

NOTE … this was demonstrated on a bicycle. It would be much harder on a tadpole trike with the crankset way out at the end of the boom. I think it would definitely be easier and better to use the chain tools.

KEEP ON TRIKIN’